City Guide: Prague
by Rebecca Falkoff
Prague doesn't let go. Either of us. This old crone has claws. One has to yield or else.
-- Franz Kafka in a letter to his friend Oskar Pollak, 12/20/1902
A view of Prague from the statue-lined Charles Bridge. (Photo by Rebecca Falkoff)
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Since the fall of communism in 1989, Prague has become a hot destination for a generation of cosmopolitan job seekers. The Czech Republic made a smooth transition to a market economy, and Prague is abuzz with innovation and growth brought by the last 10 years. Whether you are interested in consulting, teaching English, programming or banking, there is ample opportunity in Prague. And, as Kafka wrote, anyone who dares to linger in Prague's grip will be captivated by its powerful intrigue and beauty.
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VISAS
US citizens may visit the Czech Republic for up to 30 days without a visa. If you arrive in the Czech Republic without a visa but plan to stay for more than 30 days, you can get an exit visa, which allows you to stay for a total of 90 days. If you plan to stay longer than that, you must apply for a work or study visa at a Czech embassy or consulate.
TEFL CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS
Via Lingua and International TEFL Certificate both offer five-week TEFL certification courses in Prague. With TEFL certification, it isn't hard to find work teaching English in Prague.
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Additional Resources
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Teaching English
As the Czech Republic participates in the global marketplace and prepares to enter the European Union, Czechs are in a hurry to learn English. Certified English teachers will find no shortage of work there. If you aren't certified, several schools offer five-week TEFL certification courses and help with job placement.
Anna Parisi, who completed a CTEFL course at International TEFL Certificate (ITC), describes her brief search for a job in Prague: "We had a job fair at our program after we finished. We set up some interviews and they all made offers."
According to John Cosgrove, who also completed the course, "It's really easy to find a job here teaching English. You have the upper hand, so you can afford to be picky."
Other Work
Business is thriving in Prague, but there is room for development. Antonio de Blasio, an Italian with a background in sales and consulting, relocated to Prague for this reason. "The Czech Republic, like other Eastern European countries, is developing. There is a lot of potential here," he says.
De Blasio is optimistic about finding a job. "I'll give myself a month. It's not going to be difficult," he says, noting that the job market is strong. "Czech people change jobs every couple months because there are so many opportunities here."
The Expat Scene
With so many foreigners flocking to the city, Prague's expatriate scene is hopping. You'll find compatriots in English language bookstores, traditional black-light puppet theaters and trendy cafés and bars. People in Prague work hard, but they also know how to relax. "People spend a lot more time with their friends in Prague," says British expat Matthew Daly.
Some expats go so far as to display an almost religious devotion to nightlife. "You don't need a job because you just go from one party to another party, and then you go to the after party," says one Croation expatriate. "Then you sleep, and then you wake up, and then you go to another party. That's the process you have to go through. And after four years, you'll find out that you have so many friends, you don't need any money or responsibility to make your life even better, because there isn't any better life."
Don't worry: If you have a more moderate idea of the good life, you won't be alone either.
Trouble in Paradise

Czechs and expats gather at the FX Café in Prague.
Expatriates enjoy Prague nightlife and Czech beer at the FX Café.
(Photos by Rebecca Falkoff)
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Prague is a breathtaking city, but living there can be difficult at times. Since the language is so hard to understand, you may feel isolated. "You're so lost for a while," says Parisi, describing her own experience. "It's easy to just tune everything out and just be in your own world when you don't understand Czech."
In addition, some encounter discrimination in Prague, either because they are foreign or because of their skin color. Meera, a Medical student at Charles University who has been living in Prague for two years experienced such frustrations. "Some of the Czech people aren't used to having foreigners around. They don't like it, and they're rude. They associate me with gypsies because of my darker skin."
Some Czechs feel exploited by the sudden influx of enterprising westerners since the fall of communism. This sentiment often manifests in xenophobia and scams aimed at foreigners. It can be extremely difficult to find a fairly priced apartment if you're not Czech, because rent for outsiders is often augmented. The best way to avoid getting ripped off is to befriend Czechs and ask for help and advice. Cosgrove made efforts to get to know Czech people from the day he arrived in Prague, and his effort proved to be quite rewarding. "The Czech people are great," he says.
Prague offers exciting career opportunities and a dynamic expatriate community. Foreigners are entranced by it, Czechs are proud of it. "Once, this was the greatest city in Europe," boasts Dr. Burian, study advisor at Prague's Charles University in. Today, as the melancholy air that endured Nazi occupation and communism steams with a new excitement, you can feel the greatness soaring back.
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