Paris's profound influence on American expatriates has been celebrated by generations of writers. Ernest Hemingway famously wrote: "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."

And for those who are lucky enough to work in Paris at any point in their lives, the city can provide a feast of career opportunities. That is if you have a few things going for you: a fondness for paperwork, a firm grasp of the language and a strong resume. Without these things, landing a job in France is still possible but increasingly difficult, especially if you hope to avoid the ESL circuit.

Piles of Papers

The joys of Paris are too often mitigated by the slew of inconveniences that expatriates face there. Americans, for example, are consistently frustrated by the paperwork required for living and working in Paris.

The requisite bureaucratic shuffle for foreigners in Paris is almost as pervasive as their adoration of the city. "It's just so difficult, frustrating and at times maddening to accomplish anything here. You need so many papers," laments Andrea Lynch, a 24-year-old who has spent the last year teaching English in Paris. "Piles of papers! Piles and piles of papers surrounding every physical task. You just want to shake your fists at the heavens."

One contributor to AngloFiles, a Web site for Paris's Anglophone community, shares one of her discoveries. "If I've learned one thing, it's to never throw anything away. Save about 10 copies of every scrap of paper you receive during your stay in France. No matter how illogical it may seem, you will probably need them."

The Pros and Cons of Teaching English

A common way for English-speaking expats to support themselves in Paris is by teaching English. As in other major European Union cities, English teachers are in great demand. However, as Lynch learned, "If you can avoid the English teaching industry in Paris, it's probably a good idea."

"I have a lot of friends who teach at different English language schools and no one is paid particularly well, no one has the schedules they want to have and people are generally treated as replaceable," she says. "But I think you're also pretty limited when you come to Paris, and it's fairly easy to get a job teaching English. Most people just do it so they can stay."

Without a French passport, teachers are limited to work in the private sector, which usually means less money and worse hours. As Lynch makes clear, there are still plenty of opportunities to teach English in Paris, but if you fear some of the downsides she's observed, it is possible to find work in other sectors. A search of career sites like Monster.com will show there are many openings in France. But perhaps, not surprisingly, most are for technology specialists.

Be warned: Unless you are highly specialized and have a good amount of experience, it could be very difficult to obtain a position in France, especially without mastering the language. "To get another job, you really need almost bilingual skills with French. At this point after being here for more than a year, I feel like I could probably get a better job if I wanted to stay longer," says Lynch.

Life in Paris

While Parisian bureaucracy can at times be unbearable, it's only a small part of life in a city best known for its romantic appeal. "I love the movies, the cafe culture and just walking down the street here," says Lynch.

Paris is at once liveable and lofty. It inspires music, cinema, literature and love while providing its international inhabitants with strolls through the Luxembourg gardens, exquisite cuisine, a range of cultural events and an excellent public transportation system. If finding work in this fair city seems impossible, follow in the footsteps of those expats who came before you: study, write and create.

But even as expats of all generations can take in their surroundings and smile, all soon realize that in order to arrive at the heaven Wilde names Paris to be, one must pass through Paris's purgatorial mountains of paper.

Find out more about what you need to do once your plane lands in the City of Light.