Expatriate Life in Madrid
by Rebecca Falkoff Monster Contributing Writer
Madrid, both suavely international and intensely Spanish, rewards all who accept its contradictions. At the center of the Iberian Peninsula, more than 2,000 feet above sea level, Spain's capital provides its denizens with cool winters and warm, dry summers. And even if you work in a climate-controlled office, Madrid's Holy Week processions, bullfighting season and festive summers make you aware of time's passage.
"I do not believe anyone likes [Madrid] much when he first goes there. It has none of the look that you expect of Spain…Yet when you get to know it, it is the most Spanish of all cities, the best to live in, the finest people, the finest climate."
- - Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon
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In fact, time might be one of the most significant cultural differences between Spain and the United States. If you relocate to Madrid, be prepared to adapt to a new way of life, not just a six- to nine-hour time change. "The first thing that expatriates notice is the time difference. In Madrid, people get up late and go to bed very late," says Yvonne Sandifort, cross-cultural consultant at the Spanish Relocation Network.
Once the jet lag wears off, you grow accustomed to tapas at a sidewalk cafe at 11 p.m. And if you enjoy dining late at night, you have plenty of choices of where to go. "You can't walk for more than 20 meters without finding a bar or restaurant," says Sandifort. In addition to restaurants and bars, Madrid offers world-class theater and opera as well as traditional bullfighting and flamenco dancing.
The Changing Face of Business in Madrid
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Visas and Work Permits
Spain is a member of the Schengen Treaty and follows roughly the same procedures as other Treaty countries. If you plan to stay for more than three months, you need a residence permit. If you have a job lined up before arriving in Spain, you should obtain residence and work permits at a Spanish Embassy or Consulate in the US.
Sandifort emphasizes the difficulties of obtaining proper documentation to work, and suggests you begin your quest for a visa before your departure. "There have been new laws passed in Spain, and it means the paperwork is taking longer and longer," she says.
For detailed information about obtaining work visas and residence permits, visit the Spanish Embassy Web site.
Relocation Services
The relocation services Spanish Relocation Network and Relocations España help expatriates obtain housing, orient themselves and integrate themselves into the culture.
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Though Madrid's allure may rest in the Spanish essence Ernest Hemingway describes in Death in the Afternoon, the city is a viable place to live and work as a hub for international business and the seat of La Bolsa, the Spanish stock exchange. Employment opportunities span financial, insurance and real estate sectors, as well as communications, information technology and tourism.
Increasing globalization brings great changes to Spanish business. "You may still see the 'mañana syndrome,' but international business is carried out in Madrid as it is in other cities throughout the world."
Job seekers should be cautioned, however, that Spain's unemployment rate of 13.7 percent makes finding work tough.
Habla Usted Inglés?
More often than not, if you ask this question, you will be answered with a no. Because French was the foreign language taught in Spanish public schools until recently, "English is not widely spoken, and it's not spoken well," says Sandifort. The good news is this means there are many opportunities for English language instructors.
If you don't speak Spanish well, or even if you do, take advantage of Madrid's sizeable expatriate community to cultivate connections.
Housing
Although expatriate salaries generally make trifles of food and entertainment expenses, housing in Madrid is expensive and fraught with complications. Renters should inspect the apartments carefully, advises Dianne Kiddell, managing director of Relocations España. "You have to sign that the house was received in a perfect state, and often it's not in a perfect state," Kiddell warns. "Some owners here are not very professional; it could be some little old lady who can't be bothered to fix anything."
Grants, Fellowships and Study Abroad Programs
There are many opportunities in Madrid for students. If you are currently enrolled in a college or university, visit the study abroad office to learn more about programs.
Online, you can find information about Fulbright grants in Spain and the newly created Young Hispanic Leaders Program, which is available to US citizens of Hispanic descent between ages 28 and 38.
Cultural Differences
On the whole, most North American expatriates do not experience great difficulties in adapting to Spanish culture. However, although Spaniards are very open and friendly, "An expatriate coming for a two- or three-year project who does not learn the language is not going to become a part of the culture," says Kiddell. "They have their family and friends, friends from childhood, friends from school. That said, they are incredibly friendly and would be happy to get to know you."
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