"Berlin. What a garrison of spies! What a cabinet full of useless, liquid secrets, what a playground for every alchemist, miracle worker and rat piper that ever took up the cloak."
-- John le Carré, A Perfect Spy
Berlin City Guide
A Playground for Rat Pipers, Alchemists and You?
by Rebecca Falkoff
With shelled buildings, modernist architecture and socialist housing blocks, Berlin sprawls like a 21st-century Rome, displaying traumatic traces of its past. "The atmosphere is hard to describe," says Kevin McCann, who studies history, philosophy and literature and teaches English in Berlin. "There are definitely still traces from the communist era -- you see extremely ugly socialist housing everywhere in the eastern half of the city."
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Documents
Germany is a member of the Schengen Treaty and follows roughly the same procedures as other Treaty countries. Anyone planning to stay in Germany for more than two months must register with German authorities within one week of arrival. If you plan to stay for more than three months, you need a residence permit from the local Alien Registration Office. If you have a job lined up before arriving in Germany, obtain permits at a German Embassy or Consulate in the US.
Descendents of Jews or other persecuted groups who fled Nazi Germany may be eligible to reclaim citizenship. For more information read "Trace Your Ancestors to a New Passport" or visit the German Embassy Web site.
Resources
Monster.de lists hundreds of job openings in Berlin.
Brush up on your German with our German language guide.
Berlinfo and Berlin.de contain information about relocating and traveling to Berlin.
The English Language Teachers Association of Berlin and Brandenburg Web site is a good starting point for anyone hoping to teach English in Berlin.
In the Know Germany by Jennifer Phillips features cultural and linguistic information as well as tips about relocation.
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Soon after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, designs were made for a new city center. Urban development has now revitalized Berlin. These developments have attracted numerous multinational corporations and turned Berlin into a thriving metropolis.
As Berlin tackles the final stages of unification, it resounds with innovation and change. Johanna Juni Lee, a philosophy student at the University of Chicago who studied at the Geothe Institute in 1999 recalls, "I felt I was seeing history in the making."
Work Opportunities
The unemployment rate, 16 percent, is extraordinarily high. However, English teachers and other skilled workers are in great demand. "It might be a little difficult for Americans who aren't students to get a permit for jobs other than teaching English," says McCann.
Most US companies with branches in Berlin prefer to employ Germans, because it is cost-efficient and there is an abundance of highly qualified English-speaking Germans. Americans will probably have trouble securing lower-level positions; more jobs are available at the executive level.
Working in Germany means enjoying liberal vacation time. Employers are required to offer 18 vacation days per year, but 70 percent of the workforce enjoys at least six weeks of yearly paid vacation.
Living in Berlin
Despite the overwhelming presence of its painful past, Berlin is home to a young, chic crowd. In fact, the history adds to Berlin's allure. "In some places, war damage has been exploited to make sort of trendy trash-art courtyards and cafes that incorporate the shrapnel wounds into the decor," says McCann.
Berlin's hippest parts are in the formerly communist areas. "The Eastern Center of the city -- Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg -- are trendy, but the Western Center -- Charlottenberg and Zoologischer Garten -- is somehow lifeless and corporate," says McCann. Lee describes the Mitte as: "Young, modern, slick with a lot of people wearing black -- straight out of a Prada ad."
However, Americans may find it difficult to meet people. According to In the Know Germany, Germans are often less outwardly friendly. Additionally, Germans draw distinct lines between their public and private lives and do not like to discuss work in social settings.
If you rent an apartment in Berlin, In the Know Germany offers a few tips: Be conscientious about trash disposal and recycling. Failure to separate recyclables is considered a breech of civic responsibility. Don't wash your car on the street or mow your lawn on Sundays and respect the quiet hours, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. Monday through Saturday and all of Sunday.
An International City
Berlin is an international city. Out of 3.4 million inhabitants, 450,000 are foreign nationals. But this diversity doesn't necessarily mean tolerance. "If you're not white, you may face some minor discrimination that can pile up and really upset you," says Lee.
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